Understanding Chinese Thinking:

The 24 Solar Terms

Today is the ninth of October. The Chinese international school where I work has just put a message on its social media to remind all employees that today is the day of ‘Cold Dew’ which in Chinese is 寒露. ‘Cold Dew’ is a day that marks the changing seasons, specifically telling us to expect colder weather as we approach the end of Autumn.

So what is ‘Cold Dew’ and why is this reminder important to my colleagues?

Cold Dew is one of the 24 solar terms. Broadly the seasons in China follow the same pattern as in England. However the Chinese further subdivide the four seasons into smaller, more finely tuned passages of time using these 24 terms. For example Autumn starts with ‘End of Heat’ and moves through ‘White Dew’, ‘Autumn Equinox’, ‘Cold Dew’ and ‘Frost Descent’ to ‘Start of Winter’.

Each solar term represents a set of changes in the weather. The origin of the terms in the agricultural year can be seen by the fact that each solar term is accompanied by information for farmers about what they should do at each turning point to ensure a good harvest or the health of livestock.

I’m certain that in Britain before industrialisation the same set of ideas were also common knowledge. For Cold dew it tells me that, ‘ At this time, temperatures are much lower than during White Dew in most areas of China. The dew is greater and colder and there will be less rain. Autumn crops will be ripe.’

But why would this information be of interest to my colleagues? They work in education and are very unlikely to even have a garden, because private gardens are rare in Beijing, although communal allotments are popular. The enduring meaning of these solar terms is that they also come with a set of information about how we can ensure health and well-being as we adapt to the changing seasons.

For example, during the current period of Cold Dew the advice is to eat the now ripening hawthorn berries. And this is not just folklore. Scientific study has shown that the antioxidants in the berries support good cardiovascular health. In terms of wellbeing the advice is that Cold Dew is a good time to go hiking. Again we can see this is more than superstition. Not only is late autumn visually inspirational, it’s also the last chance to get in some healthy exercise before the icy grip of winter drives everyone indoors.

So these 24 solar terms are intensely practical. You could say that they are the equivalent of the sort of public health announcements we have in the UK, where for example, we are all being reminded to get our flu jabs for the coming winter.

However I think their real function in society goes deeper than this. First of all they maintain the idea of community formed in agricultural societies. It’s like having the village elders still looking after you, gently reminding you, ‘you need to start wearing an extra layer you know, it’s getting colder now’. I think we all know that all Chinese people cherish the idea of their ‘老家’, their ‘laojia’ or ‘hometown’. And these solar terms are a cultural way of preserving that connection.

Even if you lead a modern, busy lifestyle in cosmopolitan Shanghai, remembering the 24 solar terms takes you back, if only fleetingly, to your roots. Some might say it’s all just superstition, but I can see that it is another part of the wider stability of Chinese society, a stability that is an important platform for change.

And I think there is another layer, even deeper than community. Sociologists often say that modern, urban life is ‘deracinated’, which simply means we have ‘lost our roots in nature’. Of course no-one would welcome back the poverty and lack of opportunity of being entirely tied to agricultural lifestyles, but in my mind there is no doubt that our lives are unbalanced if our wellbeing loses harmony with the rhythms of nature.

As soon as I say something like this your scientific brain says, ‘superstitious nonsense’ which is precisely why the cultural observance of things like the 24 solar terms is so important. Quietly, unobtrusively it re-connects my Chinese colleagues to the enduring benefits of community and following the cycles of nature.

(If you are interested in these 24 Solar Terms and would like to follow them through the changing year, you can find interesting and beautifully illustrated articles for each term on the CGTN news website or App)

地球日~ dìqiúrì ~ Earth Day

This blog post cites the content presented in article by an organisation called WildChina on Green Initiatives in China’s cities. WildChina is a travel company that offers exclusive and socially responsible travel experiences customized to meet the preferences of our leisure, education, and corporate clients. They go beyond the conventional travel experiences by creating immersive adventures that challenge preconceptions and inspire new stories.

Monday April 22nd is international Earth Day, an opportunity to reflect again on the climate emergency we are currently entering and to remind ourselves that this is a planetary crisis, truly without borders, and where mutual understanding and co-operation between the UK and China has the potential to make significant contributions to more sustainable futures.

I think in the UK we should appreciate that sustainability is a major issue for the Chinese people. They are aware that the achievements of the successful industrial and agricultural advances of the 1980’s and 1990’s came at some cost to the environment and are now determined to swing the pendulum back towards nature. Everywhere you will hear talk of ‘harmony’ as being the principle that the whole society should be working towards.

There was a very famous example of ‘harmony’ in 2021. In the southern province of Yunnan there are herds of wild elephants. The elephants have a national park area where they are protected. However the elephants, probably looking for new natural resources, wandered out of the park and started to make their way towards Kunming, the provincial capital. The event caused a lot of concern, because of the damage that the herd might cause. Yunnan is predominantly an agricultural province where many people still depend on growing and selling crops for their livelihoods.

Naturally the elephants would forage whatever was in their path. There was talk of all sorts of violent measures to force the elephants back onto their reserve. And then the most wonderful narrative developed, which can only be described as a love of nature and harmony. They simply decided to let nature take its course. For 110 days the elephants roamed through the villages, towns and fields of Yunnan heading north before learning that the colder northern parts of the province did not make good habitat and turning south again.

150,000 residents were temporarily re-located to prevent incidents, of which there were none. The elephants had their own dedicated police force of 25,000 officers to protect and gently guide them. 180 tonnes of food were provided to the migrating animals. As you can imagine members of the herd became media celebrities with daily news reports tracking their exploits and progress. The event became a national affirmation of the support of the Chinese people for the mission of China to become a ‘shēngtài wénmíng’ , an ‘ecological civilisation’.

Yunnan elephants, photo courtesy of CGTN)

The origins of this national ambition perhaps lie in the foundations of Chinese culture around the philosophies of Buddhism and the dào. Buddhism includes the teaching of compassion between all living creatures. Many buddhists follow the precept that society fundamentally means humans and all living things, not just humans. This can be put alongside the christian view that all living things should be respected, because they were god’s creations.

This buddhist view of living in harmony with nature perfectly complements the teachings of the dào. Dào simply means ‘the path’ and the wisdom of this philosophy proposes that human happiness consists in following the most natural and organic path possible through life, and avoiding all temptations to interfere with or control the natural order of things. At the heart of the dào philosophy is this idea, 无为 wúwéi, which is hard to translate because I can’t think of an obvious English equivalent, but it’s meaning is we should not interfere with or try to control, the natural flow of things.

I think we can agree that if the world followed this way of thinking we probably wouldn’t need an Earth Day, because in the past we would have found ways to manage the development of society without environmental destruction.

China, Britain and the rest of the world are now in this situation where a transition is needed, a re-imagining of the balance between humans and the natural world. It is undeniable that the modern sciences of technology, medicine, urban development and economics have made life more comfortable than in previous centuries. However in the process, over the last 50 years, I think we have to conclude that the very growth that has improved the lives of millions has taken the planet to a perilous place.

There is international consensus on the nature and scale of the problems. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), has identified scientifically a set of seven global ‘tipping points’ where there is an imminent danger that continued growth in CO 2 emissions with consequent increases in global temperatures and continued damage to natural eco-systems through unregulated farming or fishing, will cause irreparable damage.

A case in hand is the Greenland Ice sheet. The Arctic ice sheet is warming 3 to 4 times faster than the rest of the world, adding almost 1mm to global sea levels every year. As the world’s second-largest ice sheet, the Arctic holds enough water that, if melted completely, could raise sea levels by 7.2 metres (22 feet). A 1.5C increase in average temperatures could be the threshold at which the region’s ice sheet melting would become irreversible. China, Britain and America are amongst the countries of the world directly threatened by rising sea levels. Mega-cities on every continent will face serious impacts, including Lagos, Bangkok, Mumbai, Shanghai, London, Buenos Aires and New York. The danger is especially acute for some 900 million people living in coastal zones at low elevations –one out of every ten people on earth.

The importance of Earth Day has increased every year since it started in 1970. Facts like those outlined above for just one of the seven tipping points make it abundantly clear that international co-operation rather than nationalistic isolationism is now called for. The metaphor of ‘fiddling while the world burns’ could not be more appropriate. The encouraging news is there have been recent examples of government level co-operation between China and the UK to agree common strategies. In 2015 a ‘Clean Energy Partnership’ was established was expected to encourage more investment in clean technologies, which in turn could help to reduce their costs in both countries. At the same time, the China National Expert Committee on Climate Change and the UK’s Committee on Climate Change have agreed to establish a new process of joint work on climate change risk assessment, recognising the importance of risk assessment for informing climate change policy. In 2021 there was a round of high level dialogue between China and the UK around that year’s COP 26 conference. China and the United Kingdom reaffirmed their commitment to the principle of common but differentiated responsibilities to complete negotiations over rules for the landmark 2015 Paris Agreement.

However since then it seems the focus of climate change related partnerships has swung away from the UK. In November 2023 China and the United States signed the the ‘Sunnylands Statement on Enhancing Cooperation to Address the Climate Crisis’. This agreement included a commitment to ongoing co-operation between the two countries on climate change. China and the United States decided to set up a Working Group on Enhancing Climate Action in the 2020s, to engage in dialogue and cooperation to accelerate concrete climate actions in the 2020s.

Dialogue between China and the European Union around climate change initiatives is also assuming greater importance. In 2022, the third High-level Environment and Climate Dialogue between China and the European Union was held where both sides agreeing to deepen cooperation on environment, climate, and energy. In December 2023 the 24th China-EU Summit took place which amongst other agreements deepened partnerships around global challenges such as food security, climate change and public health, and working for positive outcomes from COP28.

Just this year German Chancellor Olaf Scholz was in China to stabilise and deepen ties of co-operation with China, including partnerships in green development, communication and coordination on green and environmental protection issues, promoting the research and development of green energy technology and industrial technology upgrading, and deepening cooperation in such fields as new energy vehicles, green finance, and third-party markets. I’m sure part of our Earth Day hopes are for initiatives such as these to bear fruit.

But let’s come back to Earth and finish by reminding ourselves what Earth Day means for humans and our fellow species. Let me showcase a few initiatives here in China. It would be wonderful to find equivalent projects in the UK and to build links if possible. First of all I’d like to re-introduce you to my friend, Wu Hongping. He’s a farmer, poet and philosopher I met while on Spring Festival travels in the southern city of Dali. He has built a community called ‘Veggie Ark, Future Spaces’, which offers people who stay there, long-term or short-term, the opportunity to experience an ‘earth friendly’ life-style. For example he creates ‘raw food’ lunches, where every item on the table is more or less brought directly from the field to your plate.

Now in Sichuan province we can call in on the Daoming Bamboo Craft Village. This is a remarkable example of what human creativity can achieve when it works in harmony with nature and tradition. The village is a single organic structure which has been constructed in the shape of a figure 8, or infinity symbol. Much of the building is built from locally sourced bamboo wood so that the building itself keeps alive bamboo crafts which are in danger of disappearing in the local community. The building features an incredible ‘floating roof’ that forms a continuous organic ‘shell’ over the structure, making it an embodiment of harmony. But it’s not only in rural areas that China is trying to turn sustainability thinking into day to day experiences.

Daoming Bamboo Village ( image by kind permission of Wild China)

Finally let’s pop over to Shanghai, a sprawling mega-polis of 24.87 million people. The city government is committed to making the city more sustainable. For example it is introducing a very smart new waste management system. In order to dispose of waste, citizens have to log into a centralised system which then generates a ‘waste tax’ according to how much you want to dispose of. The city is constantly adding green spaces to increase the lungs of the city and improve air quality for all, humans, animals, plants.

There are incentives for the construction of innovative sustainable building projects. One such is the Shanghai Tower. The tower is immediately recognisable by its unique, organic twisting design, that makes it more efficient. The tower incorporates 47 different sustainability technologies which slightly increased the overall cost (by 5%) but reduced energy consumption by up to 54%. Over 25,000 panels measuring 2.14 meters in length that form a curtain wall have double-glass windows, reducing the carbon footprint by 34,000 tons per year. The Shanghai Tower also incorporates smart control systems that monitor electric consumption and generate savings of 556,000 dollars each year in energy costs. Near the top of the building, 270 wind turbines have been installed, providing the energy required to illuminate the exterior of the building. The skyscraper also has 21 gardens distributed on each of the nine zones that help to regenerate the air thanks to their plants and trees.

Signs of hope for Earth Day. In China, both at government level and at the grassroots, the earth-saving agenda of a transition to zero carbon, sustainable lives for humans and our brother and sister species is taking root. What equivalent projects are happening at ground level in the UK? What can SACU do to make connections between the ideas and experiences of leaders for sustainability in our two countries? What can SACU do to keep asking the right ecological questions to maintain the momentum towards greener futures for all?

This Earth Day, let’s become active ‘friends of the earth’ again.

Please see the WildChina article here :

 

(The photographs except where credited are originals by the author chosen to represent the Earth Day theme of harmony.)

SACU March Against Sinophobia 2024 – BIG SUCCESS!

This Year, over 5,000 people took to the streets of London as part of an international day of protest for United Nations Anti-Racism Day on Saturday 16 March 2024. SACU and friends stood with them, spreading awareness of the rise in Sinophobia and anti-South East Asian sentiment.

Iris Yau, Vivian Ni and Weien Zong on stage

Iris Yau 邱 靜 雯 (SACU Trustee) spoke on stage on behalf of SACU. Iris Yau has organised and led this march against racism in London for three consecutive years. Listen to the full speech here

Vivian Ni and Weien ZONG (SACU) were also on stage with the dragon (on loan from the London Chinese Community Centre) and SACU banner.

CGTN World News report

SACU featured heavily in CGTN World News and media coverage with SACU’s Standing Up To Sinophobia placards in such a prominent position on screen!!

Footage courtesy of CGTN Europe (with permission to share on SACU Youtube channel, confirmed by Rahul Pathak CGTN Europe 17.3.2024).

Special thanks to CGTN Europe team.

A Taste of China

A street side local noodle restaurant in Yunnan

In this week’s blog I’d like to open up a discussion in which all SACU members can take part – what are the ‘Top Five’ Chinese recipes?

Food really is a fundamental part of Chinese culture in a way that it seems to me is closer to Italy than Britain. If I ever want to coax my students to forget their shyness and speak torrents of English, I just have to open up a discussion like the one we’ve started now.

Let’s see if I can start a SACU debate in the same way. What follows is my very personal list of five favourites, but I’m putting the list out there hoping to have it challenged and contested by the superior taste-buds of SACU members everywhere.

China has 5000 years of cultural development behind its cuisine. The earliest evidence of cooking and consuming rice dates back to the Upper Paleolithic period, between 12,000 and 16,000 years ago! Archaeologists recovered four grains of rice from the Yuchanyan Cave, a rock shelter in Dao County, Hunan Province in China.

Furthermore, there is evidence to suggest that the art of noodle making started 4,000 years ago in the late Neolithic period in northern China, according to the evidence of a prehistoric sample of noodles contained in a well preserved, sealed earthenware bowl. And I’m sure we all remember those eloquent sequences in Michael Wood’s ‘Story of China’, where he extols the food culture of Song Dynasty Kaifeng:

Thanks to improved agriculture and distribution, Song cooks had a bigger range of ingredients than ever before and they developed the first great restaurant culture in the world, complete with cookbooks, gourmet diaries and guides to dining etiquette

Just as a reminder, the Song Dynasty flourished in the tenth to the thirteenth centuries CE!

What are your favourites?

And it’s not just the history behind Chinese cuisine that is impressive, it’s the geography! Every village, every town, every region in this nearly four million square mile country has its own culinary speciality. Traditionally there are eight recognised regional cuisines. These are Shandong Cuisine: fresh and salty with a lot of seafood dishes ; Sichuan and Hunan cuisines: hot and spicy ; Guangdong (Cantonese), Zhejiang and Jiangsu cuisines: great seafood with generally sweet and light flavours and Anhui and Fujian cuisines which include lots of wild foods from the local mountains.

But there’s more – to this you have add the amazing range of culinary traditions from the 55 different ethnic minority groups in China. Personally speaking the very best foodie experiences I’ve had in China have been roadside meals prepared by local people in villages in rural Yunnan, Guizhou and Zhejiang, dishes I can’t remember the names of, but with the most wonderful fusions of fresh local flavours created from deep traditions of local knowledge.

But, this being said, I’m now going to bite the bullet, stick my head above the parapet and name my ‘Top Five’. Sadly some of these dishes will not be available in your local Chinese restaurant with its focus on Cantonese cuisine, but if you search them out there are a growing number of restaurants in the UK offering a wider range of dishes. I know from shopping experiences in London, that the ingredients for many of these dishes are available in Chinese supermarkets, so who knows, you might have some kitchen inspiration of your own.

Daily shopping for fresh ingredients is still common in China

1/ 麻婆豆腐 – mápódòufǔ or ‘pock marked doufu’

This is a dish from Sichuan, and carries a large spice warning. Especially crucial to this dish are the small but deadly peppercorns which deliver great bursts of flavour alongside making your tongue tinglingly numb. But it has the vital ingredient of all Chinese cuisine – simplicity. Apart from the spice it is a mix of fried minced pork, tofu and chopped scallion onions!

mápódòufǔ

2/ 佛跳墙 – fótiàoqiáng or ‘Buddha jumps over the Wall’ soup.

Despite its name, this delicious and health-giving soup is not at all suitable for vegetarians. Traditionally it includes chicken feet, scallops and lean cuts of pork! The essential part of this dish is the cooking method. The health factor comes from the slow cooking method, combined with a fusion of health giving herbs and spices. The end result is an invigorating soup with a range of melt in your mouth ingredients.

Buddha jumps over the Wall’ soup.

3/ Guilin Rice Noodles – 桂林米粉, Guilin mifen:

Guilin is a city in Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region in south China. This signature dish originated in this region but is now to be found across China. Again its essence is simplicity. In a rice noodle restaurant you will find a boiling vat of broth in which your noodles will be freshly prepared. You’ll be given a list of meat and vegetable ingredients to select to be stirred into your bowl of noodles and soup. And finally you can choose from a range of condiments, herbs and spices to adjust the flavour to your personal tastes.

Guilin Rice Noodles

4/ 大盘鸡 – dàpánjī , ‘big chicken dish’.

I love just saying the name of this wholesome, stomach lining dish which originated in Xinjiang, western China. Sadly I’m not sure if it’s available in Britain yet, but it will be a hit when it arrives because it’s based on two British favourites – bread and potatoes! Essentially dàpánjī is a stew made of chicken (up to and including the chicken head), potatoes, green peppers and a spicy gravy. It’s a speciality of the Uyghur people and if you order it in a Uyghur restaurant expect it to be served on the most delicious fresh baked flatbread which gradually soaks up all of the rich gravy and makes a totally satisfying end to the meal. Strong tip – order the mix of home-made yogurt and cumin seeds which accompany this as a side dish and fresh green cucumber.

A Uyghur ‘big chicken dish’ or ‘dàpánjī’

5/ So – cue big drum roll, what am I going to serve up for you at top spot in my Top Five Chinese delicacies. Sorry to disappoint any of you who are fans of intricate dishes such as 北京烤鸭 , Běijīng kǎoyā or roast Beijing duck but my loyalty lies with a humble street food. It’s a pastry which can be filled with a range of delicious ingredients – but it’s not the famous 饺子- jiǎozi or dumplings that many of us know from Chinese festivals. It is the, to my mind, far superior southern cousin of jiǎozi called 小笼包, xiǎolóngbāo, or sometimes 小笼汤包, xiǎolóngtāngbāo which translates as ‘little basket bun’ or ‘little soup basket bun’.

History tells us that xiǎolóngbāo were first created in the 19th century in Shanghai by a restaurant owner who had the creative idea of adding a little stock around the contents of a light skinned pastry basket. The idea was pure genius. There is something almost magical about the combination of a small parcel with delicious broth and then the light but delectable pork or crab or vegetable filling. And at my favourite little xiǎolóngbāo cafe in Shanghai they serve up your little parcels of deliciousness with a tangy dipping sauce of light vinegar and delicately sliced ginger! Your tastebuds could not have more fun.

The staff at ‘Jia jia tang bao’ work their magic!

Endless cultural battles are fought over the best xiǎolóngbāo in Shanghai but for my money xiǎolóngbāo heaven is a place called ‘Jia jia tang bao’ in a side street just behind Renmin (People’s) Square. All being well I’ll be there on the weekend of 27/28th April, so join me and I’ll treat you!

So there you have it, my own very personal Top Five flavours of China. As always with these sorts of lists it’s the ones that didn’t make it that will immediately jump to your mind. So come on, let’s share our own personal favourites with each other and enrich our understanding of Chinese cuisine.

As they say in China ‘慢慢吃, mànmànchī’ or ‘slow, slow eat’, for which English has only a borrowed French phase – ‘Bon appetit!’

The author enjoys ‘just one more’ xiǎolóngbāo!

What are your personal favourites?

The Festival of Pure Brightness

清明上河圖, Qīngmíng Shànghé Tú,
‘Going along the river during Qing Ming’.

Currently there is a cultural event in China, which the people themselves call 清明, which is put into the westernised pinyin as ‘Qing Ming’. The English translation for this is ‘Pure Brightness’. In this article I will start by introducing some common features of the festival, discuss some similarities with western traditions and then go on to discuss a very famous Chinese painting based around the festival called, 清明上河圖, pinyin: Qīngmíng Shànghé Tú, ‘Going along the river during Qing Ming’.

Like many festivals in China, the origins seem to lie in a mix of history and the environment. One explanation for ‘Qing Ming’ is that it is a memory of China’s agricultural past, because in ancient times this time of year saw a ‘clear and bright’ breeze -a ‘Qing Ming’ that blew over China from the south-west, driving away the cold air, allowing temperatures to rise and rainfall to increase, starting the growing season for new crops. In other Blogs I’ve explained that the solar or agricultural year still plays a prominent role in Chinese culture.

For the historical account we have to go back to the Zhou Dynasty in the 6th century BCE. The story concerns a noble man called Jiè Zhītuī who saved the life of his leader, Prince Wen, seemingly by cutting a piece of flesh from his thigh and serving it in a soup for the starving Prince. Things took a tragic turn when the Prince ordered Jiè Zhītuī to come to court and serve him there. Refusing the royal command Jiè Zhītuī, returned to his home in the Mianshan mountains.

Desperate for Jiè Zhītuī’s help the Prince set fire to the mountain vegetation to drive Jiè Zhītuī out, but instead he burned his follower to death. Full of remorse, the Prince built a temple in the mountains and gave an order that in future no fires should be lit at this time.

From this developed the custom of setting aside this time of year as Hánshí Jié, or the Cold Food Day. Later in the T’ang period ( 628-907 CE) the Emperor Xuanzong (712–756 AD) decided to declare that the Qing Ming day was the only one in the year when people should respect and remember the ancestors.

Qing Ming gifts for the ancestors

Another name for Qing Ming is the ‘Tomb Sweeping’ day. To this day it is the custom for Chinese families to use this day to return to their hometowns and carry out ceremonies of remembrance at the graves of the ancestors. This might sound like a gloomy affair, but in China it is warm, sincere and heartfelt event in which every member of the family has a part to play. When the family go together to visit the graves, there is a tradition that everyone must have something in their hand, a contribution to make to the deceased.

At the heart of the activities are two ideas, first that the living have a duty to provide for the spirits of those who have passed and secondly, that by offering gifts, the living will enjoy the protection and guidance of the ancestors. Surely there are echoes of these core concepts in Christianity, with the Easter rituals to remember ‘the one who died that we might have life’.

Here are the more common tomb sweeping activities. “放炮” ‘fàng pào’, means setting off fireworks or firecrackers, typically done during important festivals or celebrations. “摆菜”, or ‘bǎi cài’ means arranging some food offerings. “摆花馍馍”, ‘bǎi huā mómo’ are flower-shaped steamed buns are a traditional Chinese pastry often used as offerings. “烧元宝和鬼票子” – both “yuanbao” (paper money) and “guipiaozi” (spirit money) are paper items burned during rituals to symbolize wealth being sent to the spirits or ancestors. Finally “坟头和坟四角填土”, ‘féntóu hé fén sìjiǎo tián tǔ’ is the tradition of adding soil to the top and corners of a grave mound which signifies respect and remembrance of ancestors, and is also a way to seek their blessings for future generations.

Guipiaozi ~ spirit money

Another set of beliefs are around kite flying during the Qing Ming period. There is an idea that at this time the gates between the world of the dead and the world of the living are open. Therefore by flying a kite people can carry their good wishes up to the deceased. Alternatively others believe that kites help to carry away bad luck. People who follow this idea sometimes cut the string of the kite so that any ill fortune is carried away altogether.

Qing Ming kite flying

Every Chinese festival has strong food associations and Qing Ming is no different. In the south of China the most famous delicacy to eat at this time is called 青团 or qīngtuán. These are green ‘dumplings’ made from sticky rice and barley grass. They will be filled with red bean paste of other sweet fillings. The green colour reminds people of the rejuvenation of life at spring time. In Beijing the favoured Qing Ming foodstuff is called 馓子 or sǎnzi, which are deep fried twists of dough, often arranged in pyramid shapes.

Qing Ming qīngtuán dumplings

Now let’s turn to the famous painting ‘Along the River at Qing Ming’. I think it tells us a lot about the China of the Song dynasty and the China of today. The painting is a remarkable piece of art. The original is believed to be the work of an artist called Zhang Zeduan, 张择端 . It shows a panoramic view of the then capital of the Song culture, which they called Bianjing, which is now Kaifeng in Henan province. It’s the form of this art work that makes it exceptional. It was created as a hand scroll which unrolls to a length of 528 cm. The idea was that the viewer would unravel it an arm length at a time , thereby recreating the experience of strolling through the city.

The artist chose not to portray the ceremonies of Qing Ming but the way that the ordinary people of the time used the day for meeting, eating, buying and selling. And this will be another important part of the festivities today for billions of Chinese. Whether it’s in small town markets or big city shopping , the Qing Ming scenes all over China will look remarkably similar to the hustle and bustle we see in this painting. To the right hand side of the scroll we stroll through the countryside around the city, meeting farmers and domesticated animals, just as you would today. In the central sections we pass through busy, crowded streets where all the goods and services we might find in a modern city are on offer. At the centre is a great bridge, sometimes called the 虹橋, Hong Qiao or Rainbow Bridge which is the epicentre of the thriving commercial activity. Finally to the far left we see the economic activity which is feeding the city, heavily laden boats loading and unloading cargo and even a merchant caravan of camels possibly arriving from the Silk Road.

A merchant caravan of camels

In 2010, an electronic version of this painting was created for exhibit in the China Pavilion at the Shanghai Expo. The digitised version now goes on exhibition around the world and everywhere it goes it projects an image of the benefits that peace and stability bring to the lives of ordinary people and their culture. ‘Qing Ming’ has another possible meaning in Chinese which is ‘calm and orderly’, and that is a meaning which I think we can see reflecting in front of this masterpiece of world art. As ‘moderns’ perhaps we get so entranced by the fast moving magical illusions of the present and the future, that we need moments of ‘bright calm’ to reflect deeper into the past and how those now gone have shaped who we are today.

Living traditions of Qing Ming : Buns baked for the ancestors and then taken home to be shared by the family

(Images courtesy of the author or CGTN)

Resonances – Spring Themes, Poetry in Chinese & English

Sing in the Beijing Spring

If three years of studying literature at Cambridge University taught me anything at all, it is that poems must speak, or more accurately ‘sing’, for themselves and not speak through the explanations of literary critics. It’s finally Spring, the season that has been the inspiration for myriads of poetry in both Chinese and English In this Blog I’d like to present a sample of seasonally themed poems from both cultures in the hope that they resonate with you in your own encounters with vernal scenes. Having said this, I feel the need to preface the lyrics with a few thoughts on the similarities and differences, the correspondences between poetry in Chinese and poetry in English, but please feel free to skip straight to the poems themselves.

We should start by simply remarking how important poetry has been in the development of both cultures. Indeed, poetry has been the life-blood of the growth of both languages. The English language is what it is today because it was enriched by the poetic inventiveness of William Shakespeare who either created or re-defined phrases that are now common-place such as ‘cold blooded’, ‘to be a laughing stock’ or ‘vanish into thin air’. Communication in Chinese is impossible unless you are familiar with 成语 chéngyǔ, which are idioms which carry poetic associations and meanings. One of my favourites of these is 白驹过隙 báijūguòxì, literally meaning, ‘a white horses flashes past a crack in the wall’ which corresponds to ‘how time flies’ in English.

Poetry has a long and distinguished history in both cultures. The earliest known collection of poems in Chinese is the Shī Jīng, or ‘Book of Songs’, which was made in the Western Zhou Dynasty, in about 600 BCE. In England as soon as a recognisable English language began to form in the 7th century CE, poetry emerges, the first example being ‘The Hymn of Caedmon’. Just as in England, one way of understanding history is to see it through the lens of the evolution of different poetic forms and themes. For example, while in England we associate the eight century CE with ‘Beowulf’ and other examples of epic poetry, narrating heroic deeds, in China the same period is remembered as the time of the ‘T’ang poets’, such as Li Bai, Du Fu and Wang Wei who wrote lyric poems concerning nature, friendship and the ideas of Buddhism and Daoism.

From the roots of poetry in both cultures at this time we learn that poetry was a performance, rather than a written art. In fact, in both poetry cultures we find a continuous pendulum between poetry as an elite, and rather academic art-form and poetry as a form of expression of and for, all. In China in the Yuan Dynasty from 1280 to 1367, the most common form of poetry was based on songs written for popular operas. Around 1380 in England we find the poem ‘The Dream of Piers Plowman’, written as though they were the words of a simple hermit and in which the central character, Piers, is a humble peasant.

To conclude this brief overview of the history of poetry in both cultures, we should say that women poets have played very significant roles, all too often forgotten or ignored. In China the talent of a Song Dynasty female poet called Lǐ Qīngzhào is now better recognised than at any point in the centuries since her death. However, Lǐ is only one of countless women’s voices that deserve to be better heard. And the same silences fall heavily in English poetry. The literary canon is still weaponised with more ‘great men’ than simply ‘great poets’, regardless of gender.

李清照 ~ Lǐ Qīngzhào ~ (1084-c. 1151), southern Song female poet

After this quick overview of the cultural aspects of poetry in Chinese and English, let’s focus in on poetry related to Spring. As soon as the word ‘spring’ or its Chinese equivalent, ‘chūntiān’ is out of our mouths, there follows an outburst of poetic ‘awakenings’ and ‘re-awakenings’. Amazingly Beijing is on the same latitude (39 degrees north) as Madrid, New York and Naples in Italy. Spring seems to start here at the same time as in Britain, that is the final weeks of March, first two weeks of April. Of course, China is a vast country. Last week I was in the far south, in the city of Shenzehn, where, never-mind Spring, it was already Summer! This means that Spring in both England and China is preceded by long, hard winters when there is nothing for poets to do except hibernate, metaphorically of course.

Spring poems in both cultures are full of the surprise and wonder of rediscovering that nature is still there and that it’s time to go back outside. If you look below at the lines from the General Prologue to Geoffrey Chaucer’s ‘Canterbury Tales’ and Chūn yè xǐ yǔ (春夜喜雨), ‘Happy Rain on a Spring Night’ by Du Fu, I think you’ll see what I mean. There are even echoes between the cultures of the melancholy that being surrounded by the restorative beauty of Spring can bring. You can compare the modernist pessimism of TS Eliot’s opening lines from ‘The Waste Land’

April is the cruellest month, breeding

Lilacs out of the dead land, mixing

Memory and desire, stirring

Dull roots with spring rain.

Winter kept us warm, covering

Earth in forgetful snow, feeding

A little life with dried tubers.’

with the widowed loneliness in Li Qingzhao’s lyric, 武陵春, ‘Spring in Wuling’.

The wind has subsided,

Faded are all the flowers

In the muddy earth,

A lingering fragrance of petals.

Dusk falls. I’m in no mood to comb my hair.

Things remain, but all is lost

Nor he’s no more.

Tears choke my words.

I hear “Twin ~rooks'” is still sweet

With the breath of spring.

How I too, love to go for a row,

On a light skiff.

I only fear at “Twin Brooks” my grasshopper of a boat

Wouldn’t be able to bear

Such a weight of grief.

See what correspondences about the different moods and emotions of Spring you can find in the poems below.

Now let’s look deeper into some of the different ideas about the relationships between humans and nature in these poems. The first thing I’d suggest that you look out for is the amount of naturalistic detail you find in the descriptions of poems in the two cultures. Nature poems in the Western tradition can broadly be compared to oil paintings, what is prized is the ability of the artist to realistically ‘copy’ what can be observed in nature. Attention to detail is just as valued in Chinese aesthetics, but there is a very different sense of the reality of the natural world in Chinese poems that can be compared to the sensibility of ink wash painting. Looking at one of these paintings, it becomes clear that there is a balance between finely observed and expressed detail of what can be seen and an emptiness that cannot be seen.

Actually, these differences in ideas of beauty can be linked back to philosophy. The relationship between humanity and the natural world is right at the heart of Chinese and Western thinking, but in the West there is a focus on the idea that everything in nature was created by a god, and that describing details in nature is a form of praise. There is no such thinking in China. Neither Buddhism, Confucianism, Daoism or modern Socialism have a creation myth. Both Daoist and Buddhist thinking promotes the importance of understanding the idea of ‘emptiness’, which rather than seeing nature as spiritual and eternal, sees life as characterised by impermanence and change.

Emptiness’ in an ink brush pairing by the author’s friend

One final thought before we get to the poems. When you look at these poems keep an eye on the balance between the natural world and the human world. There is a tendency in western poetry that takes nature as its theme to still put humans and human concerns above a focus on nature herself. This could be seen to be a result of longstanding ideas in the west, both before and after Charles Darwin, to see the natural world as existing in a hierarchy, with humans either as the god created guardians of nature, or with humans as the top of evolution’s tree. The Chinese poetical ‘yīn’ to the Western ‘yáng’ is to see or to seek for a ‘harmony’ between humanity and nature. A very common feature of English nature poetry is the use of metaphor or simile, to compare features in nature back to humans. Alert to this, we can see it immediately in the famous Spring poem by William Wordsworth – ‘I wandered lonely as a Cloud’

‘ I wandered lonely as a cloud

That floats on high o’er vales and hills,

When all at once I saw a crowd,

A host, of golden daffodils…

Looked at in this way it becomes clear that the ‘I’, the human presence in the poem, is more central than the daffodils themselves and furthermore that the daffodils are not naturally important, but through metaphor they are significant because they are a ‘host’, a word clearly linked them to Christian ideas of angels and spirituality.

I think this point becomes much clearer if we compare ‘Daffodils’ with a quintessential Chinese ‘nature’ poem, ‘Za-zen on Ching’ting Mountain’ by the poet Lǐ Bái:

The birds have vanished down the sky.

Now the last cloud drains away.

We sit together, the mountain and me,

until only the mountain remains.

First of all, the importance of ‘emptiness’ in Chinese poet practice is very clear in this example I think. The various lines of the poem are like exquisite inked details in a ‘shān-shuǐ’, ‘mountain-water’, painting, with implied emptiness in the spaces between. The human and the natural exist in a balance of juxtaposition. The poet does not compare himself to the mountain either by metaphor or simile. And unlike the ‘I’ in the Wordsworth poem blessed by the host of Daffodils, in the Lǐ Bái poem there is no ‘I’, and in the end the human is dissolved into the natural scene.

Until only the mountain remains

Poets like Wordsworth are often seen as belonging to a tradition we are starting to call ‘eco-poetry’, that is poetry that sets out to heal the wound between the human world and the natural world. I have no problem with that claim, but personally I believe some poems in the Chinese tradition have an even more potent natural medicine. Instead of making us the outside observers of a sublime or transcendent nature, such poems dissolve humans back into their place in nature, as just another part of eco-systems which depend on harmony, not hierarchy.

Oh dear, I hope my poetry lesson didn’t send you to sleep. Enough, let’s go outside and get to the poetry.

Let’s go outside

Spring Poem 1 :

‘Late Spring’ – Lǐ Qīngzhào

Spring colours, mild and rippling,

Usher in Cold Food Day.

Wisps of dying incense smoke

Wreathe the jade burner.

I wake from my dream to find myself

Still wearing the gold-petalled hair-piece,

Reclined on my pillows.

Swallows have not come back from the sea,

People are already competing in games of grass.

Riverside plums past their bloom,

Catkins appear on the willows.

Rain drizzles as twilight deepens,

Wetting the garden swing.

Note : ‘Cold Food Day’ is another name for ‘Qing Ming’ – the tomb sweeping festival day.

Spring comes to West Lake, Hangzhou

Spring Poem 2

‘Spring’ – Gerard Manley Hopkins

Nothing is so beautiful as Spring –

When weeds, in wheels, shoot long and lovely and lush;

Thrush’s eggs look little low heavens, and thrush

Through the echoing timber does so rinse and wring

The ear, it strikes like lightnings to hear him sing;

The glassy pear-tree leaves and blooms, they brush

The descending blue; that blue is all in a rush

With richness; the racing lambs too have fair their fling.

What is all this juice and all this joy?

A strain of the earth’s sweet being in the beginning

In Eden garden. – Have, get, before it cloy,

Before it cloud, Christ, lord, and sour with sinning,

Innocent mind and Mayday in girl and boy,

Most, O maid’s child, thy choice and worthy the winning.

A strain of earth’s sweet beginning

Spring Poem 3

Chūn xiǎo (春晓) – Spring Morning , by Meng Haoran (689-740)

Chūn mián bù jué xiǎo / 春 眠 不 觉 晓,

This spring morning in bed I’m still lying,

chù chù wén tí niǎo / 处 处 闻 啼 鸟。

not to awake till the birds are crying.

Yè lái fēng yǔ sheng / 夜 来 风 雨 声,

After one night of wind and showers,

huā luò zhī duō shǎo / 花 落 知 多 少。

how many are the fallen flowers?

A lingering fragrance of petals.

Spring Poem 4

Geoffrey Chaucer – General Prologue to the Canterbury Tales

Whan that Aprille with his shoures soote,

The droghte of March hath perced to the roote,

And bathed every veyne in swich licóur

Of which vertú engendred is the flour;

Whan Zephirus eek with his swete breeth

Inspired hath in every holt and heeth

The tendre croppes, and the yonge sonne

Hath in the Ram his halfe cours y-ronne,

And smale foweles maken melodye,

That slepen al the nyght with open ye,

So priketh hem Natúre in hir corages,

Thanne longen folk to goon on pilgrimages,

And palmeres for to seken straunge strondes,

To ferne halwes, kowthe in sondry londes;

And specially, from every shires ende

Of Engelond, to Caunterbury they wende,

The hooly blisful martir for to seke,

That hem hath holpen whan that they were seeke.

Thanne longen folk to goon on pilgrimages

Spring Poem 5

Chūn yè xǐ yǔ (春夜喜雨) / Happy Rain on a Spring Night , Du Fu (712-770)

Hǎo yǔ zhī shí jié / 好雨知时节

The good rain knows its season,

dāng chūn nǎi fā sheng / 当春乃发生

when spring arrives, it brings life.

Suí fēng qián rù yè / 随风潜入夜

It follows the wind secretly into the night,

rùn wù xì wú sheng / 润物细无声

and moistens all things softly, without sound.

Yě jìng yún jū hēi / 野径云俱黑

On the country road, the clouds are all black,

jiāng chuán huǒ dú míng / 江船火独明

on a riverboat, a single fire bright.

Xiǎo kàn hóng shī chù / 晓看红湿处

At dawn one sees this place now red and wet,

huā zhòng jǐn guān chéng / 花重锦官城

the flowers are heavy in the brocade city.

杜甫草堂~ Dù Fǔ cǎotáng
Du Fu Cottage (in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, a shrine built in the poet’smemory on the site where his modest house used to stand)

Spring Poem 6

As delicate as Spring is strong – the author.

as balanced as a mathematical solution

here in the classroom’s chill, you flower,

while in the powder playground snow

dull boys wrestle for passages of power.

the lightest dust glides from your chalk,

last fall of snow on quiet mountain peaks,

fragrant, intelligent as spring, your eyes

smile again, after cracks of winters lies;

a pure black waterfall of cascading hair

soars over deep pools of a curious stare;

your open mind moves over closed ground,

only last night they trampled the dead down.

young spring, you know love cannot grow,

where division has seeds of hate to sow.

Note:

The poem is dedicated to 李清照 – Li Qingzhao, a famous Chinese woman poet of the Song Dynasty, who wrote expressively of the suffering of love in a time of crisis – in her case the wars between the Jurchen and the Song in which her husband was killed.

Shafts of spring sunlight fills a mountain village classroom in rural Yunnan

Spring Poem 7

杂诗 – Wang Wei – Random Poem

君自故鄉來, 應知故鄉事。

來日綺窗前, 寒梅著花未

You who have come from my old country,

Tell me what has happened there?

Was the plum, when you passed my silken window,

Opening its first cold blossom?

Drops of Spring mist on temple trees

I hope you enjoyed our stroll through the Spring landscapes of poetry in China and Britain. Maybe it’s time to go back to some old favourites, or better still sprinkle word-seeds to grow poems of your own.

(All photographs are originals by the author)

Building bridges at the grassroots

Grassroots football in Guizhou, south-west China

Let’s talk football! As I write this article I can hear the familiar shouts and cries of football mad children drifting through my window from the middle and primary schools opposite, reassuringly familiar from my own countless years of watching impromptu matches while on duty in secondary school break and lunch times. Both schools have large artificial astroturf pitches where teams of enthusiastic youngsters kick footballs around in training sessions every evening and weekend. It brings back happy memories for me. From age 10 to 16 my son followed a youth football dream in England, training dutifully twice a week and playing his heart out every Sunday morning in youth league competitions. And in the context of youth obesity, adolescent mental health problems and social media addiction, how invaluable those opportunities were to healthy young adulthood.

So how healthy is the state of football these days in China? Despite the boundless enthusiasm of the youngsters below me, it seems to me China is still a long way from having a grassroots football culture similar to the one that makes the game a quintessential part of growing up in Britain. In the middle and high school where I am headteacher, football struggles to make an impression compared to basketball. There are a handful of armchair enthusiasts for top echelon clubs in the Premiership, but in ten years here I’ve never met a Chinese student even aware of my beloved Bolton Wanderers, currently languishing in League One. Sometimes in the mornings students will excuse their doziness by blaming waking up at 4 in the morning to watch a Champions League game. There are even a very rare number of students who justify their choice of London or Manchester as a university destination by proximity to Old Trafford or the Emirates. But it’s the National Basketball Association ( NBA) that steals the points for sporting glamour. At break times, my dreamers head to the basket ball court to become the next Stephen Curry or Lebron James, both superstars of the American basketball scene if ( like me ), you’ve never heard of them.

The contrast can be seen too at the edges of the culture. In the remote mountain village school I frequently visit in Yunnan Province, there’s a mountainside basketball court where the whole school , boys, girls, teachers, headteacher, turn out to play, but no football pitch. In an equivalent mountain village in Calabria, in Italy’s equally remote south, there was a dusty football pitch, where players built up their stamina chasing balls down the mountainside every time they evaded the skimpy fencing.

Basketball court in a remote mountainside school in Yunnan

The uncertain position of football at grassroots level is a mirror of the challenges facing the sport higher up. In 2016 the CSL, the Chinese Super League, the equivalent of the Premier League in England was attracting football celebrities in the way the Middle East is now. Perhaps the most famous of these was the Argentinian Carlos Tevez who in 2017 made twenty very disappointing appearances for Shanghai Shenhua. Unfortunately at that time football in China was an investment bubble being over inflated by investors. The story is typified by Jiangsu Suning, bankrolled by the enormous Suning electronics company, whose money propelled them to be crowned CSL champions in 2020 and whose subsequent withdrawl of financial support led to a declaration of bankruptcy at the start of the next season.

There were fears the CSL would disappear completely during the COVID years, however the year 2023 saw the start of a possible revival financially. Revenues from tickets and the sale of merchandise have seen a positive trend over the past season, which is viewed as an indicator of healthy operation. The season witnessed an average of around 20,000 fans per match, with traditional powerhouses like Shandong Taishan and Shanghai Shenhua enjoying consistently high attendance figures. Impressively, newly-promoted Nantong attracted up to 12,000 despite their provincial location in the county-level city of Rugao.

However even this uptick in fortunes for the domestic game has not been able to revive the reputation and profile of football nationally. On the international football stage, the Chinese women’s team, called the ‘Steel Roses’ has outperformed its male counterpart since the 1990’s when the team took silver in the 1996 Olympics and lost the 1999 World Cup by a single penalty kick against long time rivals the United States. In the 2023 Asian Games hosted in Hangzhou China, the Roses took the bronze medal finishing behind Japan and the Democratic Republic of Korea.

The rural environment of Rongjiang County, Guizhou Province.

A small number of male Chinese players have made it to the hallowed turf of the elite leagues of England, Spain and Italy , notably Wu Lei turning out for Espanyol in Spain and Sun Jihai for Manchester City. However things had never worked out for the men’s team. A low point for national soccer pride came in September 2023 with a morale sapping 1-0 loss to Syria. Worryingly for the future there are currently no signs of improvements in fortunes at under 21 level. The last ten under 21 matches have seen a solitary win- against neighbouring and equally lowly Thailand. This very evening (Thursday 21st March) the full men’s team is away against Singapore in the Asian qualifying rounds of the World Cup. A nation will be holding its breath!

We started by asking about the health of football in China. Apart from flickering signs of vitality on the women’s game, the answer is ‘could be better’! However there could be a solution on its way, and one from an unlikely source. I doubt if even the most hard-core of lower league aficionados in England has head of the ‘Rongjiang Village Super League’,yet it recently signed a memorandum of understanding with the English Premier League as part of a broader effort to boost exchanges in the soccer sector. The deal was struck between an administrative body in Rongjiang county, Guizhou province, that manages the rural soccer league and the EPL at an event on the sidelines of the China Beijing International Fair for Trade in Services.According to the memorandum of understanding, the EPL will provide training courses to the Rongjiang league to promote soccer development in the local area.

A Rongjiang League village stadium

The Rongjiang league is part of an amazing new sport phenomena in China called ‘village football’. It is China’s own ‘grassroots football revolution’ and once obscure, remote Rongjiang is at the heart of it. It is a remarkable story. The whole summer of 2023 grassroots soccer matches in Rongjiang have been going viral on Chinese social media. The matches got the nickname of “cunchao” – or village super league – a playful reference to the country’s top professional league, the Chinese Super League. The attention reached its peak in late July when two village teams competed in the final for prizes sponsored by local villagers, including ox, lamb and pig.

Located in southeast Guizhou Province, Rongjiang is home to 16 ethnic groups. Over 80 percent of Rongjiang’s residents are from minority ethnic groups. Between soccer matches, local villagers showcase their rich ethnic diversity through performances and parades. National attention has opened up possibilities for economic growth in the obscure county, which was one of the last counties in China to be lifted out of poverty in 2020. But this summer, social media frenzy has turned it into one of China’s hottest tourist destinations. From mid-May to late July, the operating income of the county’s accommodation industry has surpassed 37 million yuan (about $5 million), an year-on-year increase of over 170 percent. So far, Rongjiang has attracted more than 2.5 million tourists this summer, earning a tourism income of 2.8 billion yuan.

The league is a festival of football and local culture.

Rongjiang boasts a strong sports culture. Football allegedly took root in Rongjiang over 80 years ago and large-scale village soccer matches have been held for over a decade. In 2021, the county was chosen as one of the first batch of national pilot spots to develop the sport. The Rongjiang Village Super League started on May 13 and concluded on July 29. Featuring 20 teams comprising amateurs from local villages, the event received more than 30 billion views during the whole competition.

The down-to-earth nature of ‘cunchao’ even attracted former England soccer star Michael Owen, who sent his congratulations via an online video. In following months, over 270 teams from different cities and counties across China are expected to get together and compete in the remote county in southwest China. With a theme of delicious food, the audience will not only see passionate soccer players sweating on the pitch, but also taste delicacies from those players’ hometown.

Each team is named after a local specialty, ranging from local agricultural products to various dishes and snacks, so scrolling through the team list feels like looking at a menu.

In addition to game results, head coach of the Guilin team Zhao Wenbo said what his team cares most is to let people know about the soccer and food culture in Guilin, a scenic city in Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. The newly formed team is called Guilin Rice Noodles. Zhao said rice noodles are a key industry and a cultural symbol of Guilin. He hopes the players could bring more popularity to the delicacy with their performance in the rural soccer games.

A grassroots fusion football and food!

So there you have it! The future of football in China is safe. Just as football teams up and down England are indelibly linked to the local food and drink industry, in the case of Bolton Wanderers the local pasty, China has found its own ‘grassroots’.

(all photos courtesy of CGTN)

Shanghai’ed Again

The bright lights of the Shanghai Bund

Shanghai has thrust itself back to the forefront of international news in two ways this week. The first is through the announcement of plans to further develop the Shanghai and Yangtze River basin as an international trade and business hub. The second, and quite possibly linked to the first, is the announcement by the celebrity chef, Gordon Ramsay, that he will open his first restaurant in the city. In this blog I’ll share information about both of these announcements and link it to a deeper understanding of the history of Shanghai and its place in China and the world.

The new business hub will be called the ‘Shanghai Eastern Hub International Business Cooperation Zone’. It will be located in an 880,000-square-meter area neighbouring Shanghai Pudong International Airport. The airport will become the centre of an enterprise zone designed to enhance domestic and international business and trade.

The new hub will build on Shanghai’s existing profile as a global centre. Shanghai is already home to more than 75,000 foreign-funded enterprises, with 956 headquarters and 561 research and development centres. Shanghai is a major hub for foreign trade, with over 58,000 companies engaged in foreign trade activities. The city’s trade volume represents over 3 percent of the world’s total. Recently 63 foreign investment projects were announced with a combined value of $6.47 billion. Shanghai’s receipt of foreign direct investment exceeded $24 billion in 2023, the fourth year in a row that it has surpassed the $20 billion threshold.

China has three of the world’s wealthiest cities – Shanghai, Beijing and Hong Kong. Ranked by the number of resident billionaires, Shanghai is the third ranking city in the world after New York and San Francisco. On the basis of this information the surprising thing is not Gordon Ramsay’s decision to open a restaurant for exclusive dining in Shanghai, but what took him so long! From Las Vegas to Dubai, Gordon Ramsay branded eateries follow the money everywhere. The new restaurant has been opened in collaboration with Harrods and is located in an exclusive club called ‘The Residence’. The advertising claims the restaurant will feature ‘local flavour and ingredients’ before boasting:

Highly anticipated dishes will include lobster and salmon ravioli, a heritage tomato tart, turbot with a champagne caviar sauce, wagyu Rossini with foie gras, and Gordon’s take on the quintessentially British fish and chips.’

Jing’an Temple, close to the location for Gordon Ramsay’s Shanghai restaurant

I wonder how many of you would be attracted by this menu. For those of you who are genuinely interested in ‘local flavours and ingredients’ I suggest you give ‘The Residence’ a miss and make your way instead to a very exclusive little place called ‘Jiajia Tangbao’ in Huanghe Road, just a short walk north of Renmin Square. It’s so exclusive it opens at 9 am and usually closes by 11 am having sold out the day’s supply of freshly made ‘小笼汤包 xiǎolóngtāngbāo or steamed soup dumplings. If you haven’t tried them xiǎolóngtāngbāo are far superior to dumplings in my opinion, being exquisite little parcels of pork or chicken or crab, swimming in a delicious broth that literally explode with flavour when you bite into them. In 2020 I did two weeks of quarantine in Shanghai after flying back to China during the COVID pandemic living on blandest of hotel food. As soon as I was released I rushed to Jiajiatangbao, for a flavour feast that was close to a religious experience, it was that intense. Oh, and the cost of this culinary ecstasy – about 50 rmb or five pounds, forty-nine pence!

xiǎolóngtāngbāo!

But of course the fine diners at the residence will not be interested at all in local flavours. Instead they will be indulging in Shanghai’s centuries old love affair with being an international city. The new restaurant will be located in an area of Shanghai called Jing’an. It’s conveniently close to the CBD and a fascinating part of Shanghai’s international history. For those of you with a macabre sense of humour, it’s a stone’s throw away from what is now called Jing’an Park, a place which used to be Shanghai’s largest cemetery for foreigners! In those days the area around here was called ‘Bubbling Well’ because there really was a famous well of water bubbling up in front of the Jing’an Temple. As the number of foreign residents increased from the 1840’s onwards somewhere was needed for burials and the land around the bubbling well at that time was countryside. It was called ‘The Hill of Foreign Tombs’. The tombs were all moved to another location in the early 1950’s and the restored area was opened as a public park.

So let’s put Shanghai’s internationalism into historical perspective. Originally the area where Shanghai now stands was low lying marshland.The very name Shanghai means ‘on or above the sea’ and climate change experts are now concerned that this city which rose from the waters could slip back under them if sea levels continue to rise. Shanghai’s coastal location meant that it was rising as a port of importance when in the 1840’s, following the Opium War, the British government forced the Imperial Court to give them a ‘concession’ to live and trade in Shanghai. Taking advantage of the situation, the American and French governments both claimed equivalent rights. These concessions are still visible in the streets of European style housing that have now been converted into lucrative business addresses by their Chinese owners.

Shanghai 石库门– shíkùmén (c. 19th century) residences with courtyards.

From the 1860’s onwards there was a stable international community of about 60,000 people living and working in Shanghai. It must be emphasised that the western powers never succeeded in colonising Shanghai, the city was never under foreign control. However in the concessions the British and French set about building mini replicas of their homelands and trying to keep the Chinese out as much as possible. In another piece of historical irony, the area that is now ‘人民广场 Rénmín Guǎngchǎng’ the People’s Square in the centre of Shanghai was from 1862 until 1949 the site of a horse racing track, where the wealthy indulged their love of gambling. The Race Club’s long history of discrimination, as well as its use for colonialist political events and displays of military power, along with the moral implications of its function as a centre for gambling, meant that, once the People’s Republic of China was founded, for many it came to epitomise the evils of imperialism and so on August 27, 1951 the new government of Shanghai transformed this once exclusive club into a public square for all of the people.

By the 1930s, Shanghai was the largest trading centre in Asia, among the ten largest cities in the world. It would be wrong to think that the growth of the city was entirely due to the international presence. While it’s true that a lot of the wealth creation came from the horrendous exploitation of the Chinese poor who flocked to the city in search of a better life, other Chinese found opportunities to learn about western technology and make their own use of it. An example of this is cinema and the film business. The first ever movie screening in China took place in 1896, when a film by the French pioneers of filmmaking, the Lumiere brothers, was shown just one year after it was shot. By 1908 enterprising Chinese opened China’s first movie house, also in Shanghai. Then in the 1920’s and 1930’s Chinese directors, actors and actresses made Shanghai one of the world centres of film culture. Film directors such as Cai Chusheng and Yuan Muzhi formed the ‘New Film Movement’ which borrowed and improved on western aesthetic ideas such as expressionism to create uniquely Chinese films with a social conscience such as the 1937, ‘mǎlù tiānshǐ’ or ‘Street Angel, starring the popular singer Zhou Xuan.

Street Angel’s innovative blend of expressionism and social realism.

Like the 阴 yīn to its 阳 yáng of material wealth, Shanghai has always had a radical aspect to its character. In 1862 the leaders of the Taiping rebellion stormed Shanghai and tried to drive out the British and Americans. Throughout the nineteenth and into the twentieth century the industrialisation of Shanghai was accompanied by by strikes and other forms of protest by workers. In 1927 the radical author Lu Xun came to live in Shanghai and there he started his famous League of Leftist Writers. You can still visit his house in Shanyin Road, just a stones throw from the Hongkou football stadium. Most famously of all on July 23, 1921, thirteen members held the first national congress of the Communist Party of China at 76 Xingye Road in Shanghai making Shanghai the birthplace of New China.

What of the future? Alongside becoming an international business hub, the government of Shanghai is pursuing the vision of developing a world leading ‘Park City’. The two go hand in. The wealth earned from global trade will be reinvested in sustainability to enhance the health and wellbeing of the Shanghainese and the environment in which they live. At the heart of Shanghai’s green agenda is the construction of 70 new or renovated parks, the addition of 1,000 hectares of green land, and an increase in vertical greenery by 400,000 square metres. By the end of the year, the city’s green areas, designed for leisure and exercise in the midst of natural beauty, are expected to extend to nearly 2,000 kilometres.

Growing a greener Shanghai.

So good luck to Gordon Ramsey in building his commercial bridge of culinary understanding between Britain and China. Let’s hope that success for his business venture can be part of a wider breaking down of barriers between the British and the Chinese people and that we can all share widely in lessons to be learned from the past, the present and the future of Shanghai.

Where will Shanghai take us next?

Spring Festival Reflections

The author makes a new friend at the San Ta or Three Pagoda temple in Dali, Yunnan Province.

In the past three weeks I have taken advantage of the Spring Festival holiday period to travel extensively in China. Starting from Beijing I first of all travelled 2,087 kilometres to the city of Kunming, the capital of Yunnan Province in south-west China. I then went on a further 350 kilometres to my first base, the city of Dali. Then another 300 kilometres south from Dali to the border city of Tengchong which is very close to the border with Myanmar.

After a return journey to Kunming I then cross-crossed central China, travelling to the city of Hangzhou, close to Shanghai and the capital city of Zhejiang Province. This is a further 2000 kilometres. From Hangzhou I climbed high into the mountains around the town of Lishui to a tiny village nestled in the mountain peaks called Songzhuangcun. The next leg of my journey was the 1000 kilometre trek northwards to Qingdao, a coastal city in the province of Shandong. Finally from Qingdao it was a simple matter of 650 kilometres back to Beijing.

Approximate map of the Spring Festival travel.

Let me share with you some reflections from my journey.

If you’re thinking of any journey like this, I’d strongly suggest you travel by train. Cities across China are well connected by domestic flights and I could have halved my travel time by taking to the air. But you lose so much. Quite simply, your train window is a cinema on China. Or maybe more like an artist’s canvas with a constantly changing scenery of villages, towns, cities and nature. You journey between the familiar and the unknown. The flatlands between Shanghai and Qingdao remind you of the land reclaimed from the sea in East Anglia. The long dives through subterranean tunnels where the darkness is broken by sudden flashes of remote villages hung between precipitous valleys as you enter Yunnan is unlike anything you’ll experience in Britain.

The unfolding panorama is one reason for travelling by train. The second is the fact that train journeys connect you to not just the country but the people themselves. The longer your journey the more the chances of falling into conversation with fellow passengers. I find most Chinese people to be as reserved as us British, but if you have just enough Chinese to spark up a conversation you will be made welcome. From Beijing down to Kunming I was made to feel part of an extended family going home for the Festival. In Tengchong I improvised English lessons for curious 14 year olds who had never spoken to a foreigner before. From Shanghai to Qingdao a young entrepreneur entertained me with stories about his start up film business. Believe me, my Chinese is not good, but all Chinese people study English in school and a good number can hold a conversation in this second or even third language. How many of us could do the same in Chinese! There’s always a digital translation APP to fill in the gaps. And underneath it all is a friendliness and a tolerance that ease communication. In all those long kilometres of travel, at all times of the day and the night, there was not one unpleasant encounter.

Finally and perhaps most important, there’s the sheer efficiency and quality of China’s rail network. Of course it saves on the emissions caused by jet fuel. Currently approximately 30% of China’s electrical capacity is generated from renewables, with a target of 50% by 2025. I’m afraid to say Chinese trains are everything that currently British trains are not. They have excellent staffing with helpful conductors, regular in-travel cleaning and a catering service that regularly supplies snacks or even heated meals delivered to your seat. There’s even an APP now that allows you to book restaurant cooked food ahead in your next destination, which will be delivered to your carriage as you wait on the platform! Travelling in style! Furthermore the timekeeping of the high speed trains is legendary. My longest train journeys were all of approximately ten hours duration – and each trained cruised elegantly into its arrival destination at precisely the scheduled time.

Gleaming ‘gāotiě’ high speed train in Spring Festival sunshine in Qingdao station.

Next I’d like to reflect on the diversity of travel experiences that China can offer a traveller, a diversity which often has its equivalents in Britain.

Encounters with history and culture are a given. For history, let’s take the ancient town of Heshun on the outskirts of the Yunnan city of Tengchong. The town is unaltered since the Ming and Qing dynasties, when it was an important centre for trade across south-east Asia. Walking in its narrow, cobbled streets delivers exactly the same feelings of nostalgia and connection with the past you get in a Cotswolds village in England.

The Cotswold village charm of Heshun Ancient Town near Tengchong, Yunnan Province.

For culture, let’s drop in on the New Year’s Day festivities at Songzhuangcun village, visiting a small temple perched on the mountainside. We all know that firecrackers and fireworks are a critical part of new year procedures to drive away bad luck. However in many cities lighting up firecrackers is banned, largely for environmental reasons. No such restrictions apply here and I’m thrust into the middle of the most enthusiastic and the most cacophonous ‘bàozhú’, firecracker display I have ever witnessed, where long lines of the little explosive devices are laid out along the mountain paths leading to the temple door. Soon the path is dripping red with debris and the air reeks of gunpowder and smoke. No chance of any evil spirits straying this way! And it would be exactly the same as dropping into some of the best bonfire nights for Guy Fawkes in England, the same high spirited, defiant revelry, fuelled by high octane pyrotechnics.

Firecrackers spark the New Year festival into raucous life, Songzhuangcun Village, Zhejiang Province.

So far, so mainstream. But equally significant for me was the quirky, or even outright eccentric, characters I met along the way, showing different, unexpected faces of China. In Dali I stayed several nights in what we would recognise in England as an ‘alternative lifestyles centre’. Members of the ‘Veggie Ark, Future Space’ community in Dali are committed vegetarians, many of them vegans. Life in the community revolves around a communal kitchen where buffet meals are shared for the inspirational cost of £3:50. For even more dedicated vegans, meals entirely consisting of raw foods are available. The community has a programme of events focused around creativity and wellbeing. I meet a foreigner, from Switzerland, who had joined the community and teaches alternative therapies. It’s all very middle class. Guardian readers from the UK would feel very much at home here. The founder is called Wu Hongping. He’s an incredible character. He comes from a farming family. After travels abroad he returned to Dali, started growing food for himself and then realised that his home-grown, organic philosophies were increasing important to a materialist society. Now he is a farmer, a social entrepreneur and a wonderfully charismatic, inspirational teacher.

Veggie Ark, Future Space’ , Dali, Yunnan Province, where Wu Hongping is creating a wholesome wellbeing community.

Another alternative lifestyle presents itself at Songzhuangcun, my homestay village in the Zhejiang mountains. If I said an ‘artist’s village’, or a ‘creative community’, you’d probably think of somewhere like St Ives in Cornwall, where art is a key part of vibrant cultural tourism. Come with me now to a remote mountain-top village, where Sun Yingying is striving to achieve the same magic. Songzhuangcun ought to be a dying village. Like so many other rural areas in China, it has been devastated by urbanisation. Yingying shakes her head and tells me there are no young people left at all in the village, they’ve all moved to Lishui, the nearest town in the valley or to nearby Hangzhou or Shanghai. Therefore there is no economic activity in the village. Indeed some of the beautiful mud-brick and wooden houses look shabby and forlorn. But Zhejiang Province has a hard won reputation as the leading area for rural revitalisation in China as the whole country strives to rebalance itself after decades of urbanisation and Yingying is making her own unique contribution.

I’ve seen wonderful village projects in my travels in the south-westerly provinces of Guizhou and Yunnan, but this one has a special beauty. Sun has worked with leading designers and local craftspeople to transform a number of retired properties into a stunning homestay accommodation. The project is called ‘Tao Ye’ – ‘Wild Peach’. The beautiful rooms are instant Instagram hits – or WeChat Wonders to give the Chinese equivalent. Tao Ye is successfully calling cultural and artistic travellers from across China and in future from across the world. But here’s the genius part. To kick start the creation of an ‘artist’s village’ Sun is developing the artistic and creative skills of the older people still resident in the village. She takes me to the art gallery in another restored abandoned local house to see their work. It has the wonder and authenticity of naive art. How much is from the artists and how much is from Sun herself is impossible to say, but their work is organic to the village environment. It might be the subject matter in paintings of the village itself, it might be the media, using raw, natural materials from the local environment or it might be the artists themselves, using their hands daubed in colour to create their designs.

Sun Yingying, who is revitalising a remote village in Zhejiang Province as an artistic and cultural centre.

Sun introduces me to one of her artists, a sprightly octogenarian called Ye Jin Juan. This woman should be the national symbol of rural revitalisation. When I meet her she’s setting up a demonstration of the rural craft of soy milk making for some visitors and will not stand still for one moment, except for a shy photograph. Sun tells me that Ye only left the village once in her life, for a short visit to nearby Wenzhou to see the sea, which apparently didn’t impress her much because she came straight back to village life. Her glowing, wrinkled skin and bird like twinkling eyes are witness to the wellbeing of mountain life. She drops her head humbly when I praise and encourage her art, but I can sense that developing these skills has given her a pride and meaningfulness in her life, revitalising her, alongside her village.

The author with Ye Jin Juan, taking a brief pause from brewing up traditional dòujiāng, soy milk.

The trouble with travel is that we find it extraordinarily difficult to let things, people and places be as they are, just unfold naturally in front of you. We tend to two extremes of equally unhelpful reactions. On the one hand things can easily become uncontrollably ‘different’ and we condemn them as ‘strange’ or ‘foreign’. We see everything through the squinting eyes of anxiety. Or on the other hand we put on rose tinted spectacles and start to gush about how ‘wonderfully exotic’ everything is. Either way we are overlaying our travel experiences by projecting our own emotions, past experiences and prejudices. It’s easy to get China wrong. Even after ten years I know I sometimes do. That’s why I always try as hard as my limited communication skills will allow to tune in to local voices.

It’s like China’s vast and intriguing cuisine. You have to get out of the standardised, commercial restaurants to stand a chance of experiencing the local. Honestly, there will be things you can’t stomach. I love spicy food, but for me the third and highest level of spice in a Chongqing hotpot is forever beyond my range. Honestly, there will be times when you end up with a case of what the Chinese call ‘lā dùzi’, loose bowels. But only if you come to each meal with an open mind, and an open stomach, will you be able to appreciate the range of textures and flavours that compose the diverse symphonies of Chinese cuisine. And in time some of these will become your new taste of home. There’s a humble little roadside restaurant in Tengchong city, Yunnan where one taste of a bowl of rice noodles has all of the home comforts that a farm made pasty and locally brewed cider bring me in Dorset.

A homely bowl of fresh rice noodles, local greens and a handful of lamb meat.

Bridges of understanding are waiting everywhere for you to explore .

Traditional stone bridge, Songzhuangcun Village, Zhejiang Province.

SACU member Jan Johnson’s Chinese New Year

Dragon Year Blessings

The SACU mission is to tell stories of people to people friendship between Britain and China. I am delighted to share the Chair’s Blog with our members so that we can hear a wider range of voices. In this Blog, it’s an honour to be able to bring you SACU member Jan Johnson’s article about her Chinese New Year experiences.

“I’ve been interested in China for a long time and have been teaching myself Mandarin Chinese. I’m disabled and don’t get out very often or for very long but my friend/carer and I met a lovely Chinese lady called Rosita in a café fairly near to my home. Of course, I wanted to practice my Chinese with her. But she wasn’t from mainland China. She was from Hong Kong. Many of your readers will know that Hong Kong residents usually speak Cantonese. But no problem. Cantonese was her first language but she could also speak some Mandarin and English. Great. We chatted in a mixture of languages and I enjoyed myself immensely. This lovely lady sent me details of a craft fair being held in Leeds City Centre on Chinese New Year’s Day. This would be a big outing for me but my friend/carer, Lloyd, was determined to try to get me there, with my wheelchair.

The New Year craft fair

The craft fair was being held by Hong Kong folk now living in Leeds, at the beautiful and historic church now known as Leeds Minster. I was confused about this because I remember it by its old name of Leeds Parish Church 

 Let me tell you a bit about this impressive place.  Leeds Minster, also known as the Minster and Parish Church of Saint Peter-at-Leeds, is a prominent church located in the city of Leeds, West Yorkshire, England. It is dedicated to Saint Peter and has a rich history dating back to the 7th century. The current structure dates mainly from the 19th century, with some parts even older. It is renowned for its impressive architecture, including its striking tower and stained glass windows. The Minster serves as both a place of worship and a popular tourist attraction, hosting various events and concerts throughout the year.

Leeds Minster

So, we arrived at the entrance and were immediately welcomed by the organisers and joined the throng of people attending the craft fair and celebrating Chinese New Year. I did not use my wheelchair inside the church. It was too busy and I am fortunate that I can walk a little. I was a bit excited and wished everyone “新年快乐” (happy new year), or “龙年快乐” (happy year of the dragon). I found everyone was patient as I stumbled over my Chinese. I noticed the older folk couldn’t speak Mandarin but the younger and also middle-aged folk were very familiar with Mandarin and the people I spoke to were all very welcoming and spoke slowly so I could keep up. Of course, they all spoke English but they were very indulgent of my wish to practice my Chinese.

Jan tries her hand at Chinese calligraphy

I practiced writing using a Chinese brush and ink. You could see where children had used the brush and ink to draw with. I was attempting Chinese characters! I can’t call it calligraphy. It wasn’t that grand!  but I did manage to write a few recognisable characters and I was offered a cup of pu’er tea. 

It was all very interesting but I quickly tired and my carer pushed me in my wheelchair to his car so he could get me home to rest.

新年快乐 ~ xīnniánkuàilè ~ Happy New Year!”

Thank you Jan. SACU wishes you a dragon year full of blessings!

A Tale of Two Dragons

(Article developed from an original idea by Michael Crook)

Dragon on a Beijing roof tile

At this time all over China people will be wishing each other not just ‘Happy New Year’, but also ‘龙 年 快乐‘ – ‘long nian kuai’le’ or ‘happy year of the dragon’. There are images of dragons everywhere in China at the moment. Which makes us stop and wonder – why are dragons such powerful symbols in both Chinese and British culture ? What are the differences and similarities between them?

It’s remarkable that the basic design of a dragon is the same across both cultures. A long snake like body, powerful claws, an impressive head with strong jaws and the ability to fly, although Chinese dragons don’t usually have wings. And it turns out the key design features of dragon like beasts are found in many cultures around the world, not just Britain and China. This leads me to conclude that there must be a shared ancestral memory of large powerful creatures that human beings had every reason to be scared of. Interestingly the origin story of Chinese New Year contains one such beast, a monster called Nian that likes nothing better than to devour a person or two on New Year’s Eve.

I think this common origin can be made even deeper if we look at further details. Both in China and the West, dragons are associated with the power of nature. In the West this association is with the Earth. Dragons live in lairs, dark, hidden caves under mountains. They represent Earth magic. In China dragons live under the seas or in the air. One of the oldest ideas about Chinese dragons is that they are bringers of rain, just about the most important factor in the lives of people in a country where up until 1975, three-quarters of the population were rural residents. Chinese dragons possess the power most vital to farmers – the ability to control the weather.

A stereotypical Western dragon
(image courtesy of CGTN)

In both cultures the tradition of dragons is very long. In the West we can find the origins of dragon like creatures in both ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt. However the most immediate source of dragons is probably Ancient Greek mythology. Even the name has an Ancient Greek origin in the word ‘drakōns’. It was Ancient Greek thinking that first pushed western dragons in the direction of evil. Fighting a dragon became the challenge of choice of Greek heroes. This cultural inclination was reinforced by Christian thinking which linked dragons to the ‘serpent’ Satan. All of this mythologising led to the cultural high water mark for western dragons – the Middle Ages, represented by the myth of St. George.

The Hongshan Jade dragon, dated between 4500 and 3000 BCE.

Meanwhile over in China the earliest dragon depictions date from the Xinglongwa culture between 6200–5400 BC, while the Hongshan culture may have introduced the Chinese character for ‘dragon’ between 4700 to 2900 BC. The traditional image of the Chinese dragon appeared during the Shang (1766 to 1122 BC) and Zhou (1046 BC – 256 BC) dynasties.

In China the earlier idea of the dragon evolved into the ‘Dragon King of the Four Seas’. Each Dragon King is associated with a colour and a body of water, with the Azure Dragon or Blue-Green Dragon representing the east and the essence of spring, the Red Dragon the south and the essence of summer, the Black Dragon the north and the essence of winter, the White Dragon the west and the essence of autumn, and then there’s the yellow dragon, who is the incarnation of the Yellow Emperor.

Datong Nine Dragon Wall

So, the key difference in our tale of two dragons is that these symbols of power evolved in different directions west and east. In China, dragons became the symbols of the Emperors, representing the benevolence of their rule. Dragon emblems can be found in carvings on the stairs, walkways, furniture, and clothes of the imperial palace. It was against the law for common people to use things related to dragons in imperial times.

However throughout history dragons in China continued to be close to the lives of ordinary people. In rural communities, there was a dragon dance to induce the creature’s generosity in dispensing rain and a procession where a large figure of a dragon made from paper or cloth spread over a wooden frame was carried. Alternatively, small dragons were made of pottery or small banners were carried with a depiction of a dragon and written prayers asking for rain. The dancing processions had another handy purpose too, which was to ward off illnesses and disease, especially in times of epidemics. The dragon dance became a part of rural festivals and came to be closely associated with the Chinese New Year celebrations.

Which brings us back to today, the first day of the new year of the dragon. Chinese social media is overwhelmed by images of dragons. Many of them are cute and smiling, warm and friendly. Some are grander and more protective. Others glide magnificently and elegantly through animated gifs. Collectively they are an enormous expression of optimism about the year ahead. Of course we can dismiss it all as superstitious nonsense, but imagine for a moment the feeling of purpose that must come from even the possibility that your life and the life of your country for the year ahead is driven by such a creature, such a force for good.

Typical we-chat dragon sticker
(courtesy of weixin creator)

Before we end this tale of two dragons let me share two further thoughts.

Firstly although the mainstream image of dragons in the West is negative, there are elements of a more positive Chinese view here and there. One such can be found in the Celtic dragon tradition. Any Welsh SACU members will be quick to rally to the flag and point out that Wales is protected by ‘Y Ddraig Coch’, the red dragon that has roots in history back to the Welsh defeat of invading Anglo-Saxon armies in the mists of time. And closer to home for me, I’m very proud of the fact that my home-land of Wessex has traditionally had a golden dragon as its symbol. Indeed some historians believe that standards carrying designs with golden dragons were flown by the Anglo-Saxon army in the Battle of Hastings. Is it possible that magnificent and benevolent dragons are closer to original British culture than the snarling malevolence of the monsters from the Middle Ages ?

Y Ddraig Coch , the red dragon of Wales

Secondly, reflecting on the two evolutionary paths dragons have taken in the West and the East, could it be, as in so many areas, that actually this is a ‘yinyang’ of complimentary rather than opposing ideas. Dragons, east and west, present us with symbols of power. On one face we have images of what happens if power goes wrong and is used for evil. On the other face are reminders of how that same power can be used for good. A suitable point to pause for reflection as a new year opens for us all.

A dragon with the character , fu, meaning good fortune and happiness in the year ahead.

(All images belong to the author, unless otherwise accredited)